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Decorative "Ev-Dzhiyar" Towel, with Tughra-like Calligraphic Compositions and Islamic Benedictory Formulas

Decorative "Ev-Dzhiyar" Towel, with Tughra-like Calligraphic Compositions and Islamic Benedictory Formulas

Inv. #
ТК-414

Description

Made of bleached homespun linen. The ends of the towel are decorated with a border of three repetitions of a large calligraphic composition in the form of an Ottoman tughra, worked in twisted silver metal thread (in a "bukme"-type technique). The composition contains all the components of a tughra — three vertical staffs (tugs), two concentric oval loops (beyze), and long curving handles — but is rendered as a mirror image of the canonical scheme and does not contain a sultan's name formula: it is a decorative, tughra-like composition rather than an actual imperial monogram. Within the large loop and in the lower cartouche of each repetition is embroidered, in fine dark silk, the Arabic-script invocation and protective formula "mā shāʾ Allāh" ("as God has willed"). The spaces between are filled with flowers and leaves, embroidered in colored silk in satin stitch, in pastel tones. The embroidery along the lower edges is underscored by a narrow band of wave-like ornament.

The object belonged to the collection of the pre-war Sloboda Ukraine Museum named after H. S. Skovoroda. It remained in the museum during the occupation of Kharkiv during the Second World War (1941–1943).

Note: the towel was used in the wedding rites of the Crimean Tatar people.