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Description

Given the absence of direct parallels, the identified vestment type, "shurjar," is probable.

The vestment is open-fronted, taking the form of a long, cone-shaped cloak with a low collar and a hook-and-eye fastening at the front of the neckline. The front is made of red velvet. The chest area on either side of the opening is decorated with rectangular appliqués of gold-toned brocade with a floral pattern, over which run relief winding S-shaped branches with flowers and leaves (embroidered in gold metal thread with the addition of gold spangle), their edges underscored with red velvet "dots." The panels of the vestment along the opening and the hem edge are decorated with bands of golden cruciform brocade, with sewn-on red "dots" and faceted red beads.

Across the field of the vestment are symmetrically placed decorative appliqués of gold brocade, in the form of eight-pointed stars within rings and cross-shaped figures with ovals at the center, outlined with metal cord. The vestment is lined with yellow cotton fabric (sateen). At the back of the neckline is a hanging loop.

The object belonged to the pre-war (pre-1941) part of the collection of the Kharkiv Historical Museum.

Note: the shurjar (շուրջառ), or naport (նափորտ), is the principal outer liturgical vestment of a clergyman in the Armenian liturgical tradition, used in the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Armenian Catholic Church. The shurjar is worn by priests and bishops (including the Catholicos). In construction it is a wide, sleeveless, cloak-like vestment, put on over the other elements of liturgical dress; it envelops the clergyman's figure and falls nearly to the ground. It is draped over the back and shoulders, after which the front edges are joined at the upper chest with a clasp (ճարմանդ). In Armenian church tradition, the shurjar is considered the principal vestment of the priestly order, distinguished among other vestments by its particular decorative richness and theological symbolism. It is used during the Holy Liturgy and other solemn services. For less solemn services, the pilon (փիլոն) may be used instead — a vestment similar in form to the shurjar, but simpler in decoration and usually black.

The vestments of Armenian-rite clergy form an integrated ensemble, in which the shurjar is worn over the whole and forms its outer, most representative layer.

The length of the shurjar depends on the clergyman's height. Church practice sets no rule as to color, so shurjars may be found in various colors. They may differ in material, decoration, and lavishness depending on the status of the cleric and the material means of the church or donor. They may be made of various fabrics, including velvet, silk, and brocade. Their decoration may include gold and silver thread work, embroidery, appliqué elements, galloon, and other trimmings.

Functionally, the shurjar corresponds typologically to the Orthodox phelonion, though it is an independent element of the Armenian liturgical tradition; in form it is related to the Latin pluvial (cope). In theological interpretation, it symbolizes Divine grace enveloping and protecting the clergyman.

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